Every year over the holidays my mom and I watch The Sound of Music and, subsequently, get the songs stuck in our heads for weeks. I always enjoyed the scene where Maria calmed the children by singing about her favorite things, but I have to admit, my lyrics would be a heck of a lot different than whiskers on kittens and cream colored ponies:
“Thin New York pizza and dry apple cider
Custard-filled cream puffs and wine by the fire…”
Ok, Tristan said I have to stop before everyone knows that I'm a dork. But if I were allowed to continue, I would certainly work savory pancakes in there. Zucchini, sweet corn, green pea, you name it. But the love ends at the standard buttermilk flapjack. I like the idea of ordering a piping hot stack but they're just too starchy and inevitably leave me feeling 10 pounds heavier.
That said, I recently had an inexplicable hankering for sweet pancakes, and my cravings don't go away until they're satisfied. To avoid the infamous flour-induced coma, I decided to make a version using yogurt, lemon zest and whipped egg whites. The result? Seriously fluffy, light-as-a-feather, uncommonly good pancakes.
The key here is separating the egg yolks from the whites. You could easily skip this step (simply mix whole eggs into the yogurt) but you'd be missing out on some incredible texture. Folding in whipped egg whites produces a batter that's impossibly airy and delicate.
Requiring only 7 tablespoons of flour per batch, these lemony little cakes will simultaneously satisfy your pancake craving and perpetuate it.
Lemon Yogurt Pancakes
A lighter version of the American breakfast classic, these are made with yogurt instead of milk and a bit of lemon zest for freshness.
Makes 14 3-inch pancakes
1 cup plain yogurt (I use organic whole milk yogurt)
2 large eggs, divided
Zest of one lemon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
7 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
In a medium bowl, whisk together the yogurt, egg yolks, lemon zest and vanilla. In a small bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking soda and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and stir until just combined (do not over-mix).
Using an electric mixer beat the egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter, being careful to retain as much air as possible.
Heat a cast iron skillet or griddle over medium-low heat (err on the side of lower heat to avoid burnt outsides and raw middles). Add enough melted butter to lightly coat the bottom of the pan - you can do this by brushing, swirling or, as I do, running the end of a stick of butter over the pan's surface. Pour in the batter in scant 1/4-cup-fulls. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until bubbles appear on the surface. Flip carefully and cook another 1-2 minutes. Repeat with remaining batter.
Serve in a stack with butter, yogurt and real maple syrup.
I’d like to take a moment and bend your ear about one of my favorite new products: Liberté Méditerranée yogurt. I wouldn’t have even discovered it had it not been for their coconut flavor (I’m an absolute sucker for anything coconut and was powerless to resist grabbing one). ‘Twas a lucky day for them since they scored a returning customer.
I would describe it as a cross between whole milk yogurt and Greek yogurt: thick, creamy and just sweet enough. The venerable Montreal-based company uses hormone-free Vermont milk to make a velvety yogurt with 8.5% fat. It reminds me of the good stuff from Europe made with minimal ingredients (and no cornstarch in sight). I’ve been religiously pairing the coconut with freshly cut pineapple or mango but recently discovered that quartered strawberries taste so much better topped with a dollop of lemon Méditerranée, as would a warm slice of gingerbread.
My dessert repertoire has happily landed in a delicious rut.
Every April Tristan reminds me that Easter has always been his least favorite holiday, and through kids’ eyes, I can kind of see why: boring lamb dinner, mandatory dress clothes and no school holiday. I was determined to change at least two of those things.
Last Sunday was actually a big day for us. Not only were we hosting dinner, we were (finally!) planting our garden. First order of business was buying plant starts from the Sunseed Farm booth at the Ballard Farmers’ Market. They’re known to have an extraordinary variety of healthy, vigorous, organic starts – plus Beryl and Talley get all their stuff from them and have had wonderful luck.
The plan was to convene in the late afternoon, get all of that beautiful kale, chard, kohlrabi, leeks, green onions, lettuce, strawberries and sorrel planted and then head inside for an Easter-like meal. I didn’t want to bore everyone (especially Tristan, god forbid) with the expected lamb roast but still wanted a lamb element present. So I decided to make something that has been on my to-do list for over 3 years: Aushak (Afghan leek ravioli with lamb ragout and yogurt sauce).
My only experience with Aushak was years ago at Kabul, an Afghan restaurant in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood. They served the delicate leek-filled dumplings in the traditional fashion with a coriander-spiced ground beef sauce but were more than accommodating to substitute it with their lamb ragout upon request. In my opinion, this made a memorable dish unforgettable.
One word of caution: give yourself plenty of time to make Aushak. Even better, make them a day in advance. About an hour before everyone arrived, I found myself in a tizzy -- Noni bread still rising, sauce ingredients impatiently waiting to be chopped and dumplings yet to be made, which led to a serious moment of panic (thank you Tristan for pulling me back to earth) -- all of which could have been avoided with a bit more planning. It’s really quite fun, but not if it turns into a race against the clock.
Was this a quick, easy meal? Definitely not. Was it worth the time and effort? Absolutely. As a matter of fact, before dinner was even finished, I received requests for a return appearance next Easter.
In the end, Tristan didn’t get a day off from work, but he was able to come to the table in gardening jeans and said that this was possibly the best meal I ever made.
Two out of three ain’t bad.
Aushak
This dish is most often served with a ground beef sauce (simply substitute 2 pounds ground beef for the lamb) but I really like the the mingling flavors of lamb, mint, coriander and yogurt.
Lamb Ragout:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced, fresh ginger
2 pounds ground lamb
2 tablespoons ground coriander
Freshly ground nutmeg, about 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 cup tomato sauce
2 cups lamb or beef stock
In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until softened and just starting to color, about 8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and ginger; cook for 30 seconds more. Add the ground lamb and cook, stirring occasionally, until meat is no longer pink. *At this point I carefully drained most of the fat from the pan.* Sprinkle in the coriander, nutmeg, salt and pepper; mix well. Add the tomato sauce and stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 30-40 minutes. Sauce should be thick and flavorful – taste and adjust salt to taste.
Dumplings:
3 large leeks, whites and light green parts only, washed well and sliced
1 bunch green onions (5-6 onions), sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup chopped, fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 package wonton wrappers
1 egg, lightly beaten with a teaspoon of water
In a large skillet over medium heat, sauté leeks and green onions in oil until just softened (you don't want any color), about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer to a bowl and add cilantro, salt and red pepper flakes. Toss well and set aside to cool.
When you’re ready to assemble the dumplings, squeeze the excess liquid from the filling. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each wonton wrapper, brush all edges lightly with egg mixture, then fold in half to form either a rectangle or triangle. Press edges firmly to seal, being sure to expel any air bubbles as you go. Place finished dumplings on a flour dusted baking sheet and repeat until all filling has been used.
Yogurt Sauce:
For a thicker sauce, feel free to either strain the yogurt through cheesecloth for an hour or two or simply use Greek yogurt. I like regular yogurt since it drizzles nicely.
2 cups natural, plain, whole milk yogurt
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons dried mint or 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon salt
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Adjust seasonings to taste.
To assemble the dish:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add Aushak and simmer for 5-7 minutes (test one for doneness). Using a slotted spoon, transfer ravioli to plates. Top each serving with lamb ragout and a generous drizzle of yogurt sauce. Garnish with freshly chopped mint.
I was five years old when I performed my first cooking demonstration. It was back in New York at the old Clockville courthouse, which doubled as our voting hall. I practiced for weeks under the tutelage of my parents ("don't say 'you,'" "make eye contact," "smile") until it was flawless, by 5 year old standards anyway.
The big day finally came. When my name was called, I got up, stuck out my chin and did was I was trained to do. I placed my recipe poster on the stand, taped a tiny paper receptacle to the table, methodically organized my ingredients and launched into my presentation. I spoke of my family in Switzerland and how we just loved eating Muesli for breakfast. Time whizzed by and before I knew it, it was over. I thought it went swimmingly. Pleased as punch, I glided into my rehearsed closing, "Ladies and gentlemen, this concludes my demonstration. Are there any questions?" A hand shot up. It belonged to my Dad. "Uh, yes. Now what do you do with the oatmeal," he asked? My professionalism went out the window as I dramatically slapped my head and yelled, "Oh no!" Apparently I forgot to add the main ingredient.
Don't worry, it didn't scar me for life. I received a blue ribbon that night and was determined to do it better next year when I was six.
As far as breakfasts go, I'm not a huge fan of mainstream fare and tend to prefer savory things like soup, sprouted grain toast with avocado and salt or last night's leftovers. Then a few months ago I wrote an article all about the benefits of soaking grains, which naturally conjured up images of my beloved Swiss muesli. I've been on a serious kick ever since.
Strawberry Muesli
Bircher Muesli is most often prepared with shredded apple but feel free to use whichever fruit is in season.
1/3 cup rolled oats
1/3+ cup milk
Splash of lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
3/4 cup sliced strawberries (or 1/2 a grated apple)
3/4 cup plain kefir or plain yogurt
1 tablespoon moist date pieces (or dried fruit of choice)
Chopped nuts (I like roasted pecans or crushed hazelnuts)
Place rolled oats in a small bowl. Add milk to cover and a splash of lemon juice. Refrigerate overnight.
In the morning, add sliced strawberries, kefir/yogurt and dried fruit. Mix well and sprinkle with nuts.
