Mini Soft Pretzels

Ever since I saw Deb’s post on miniature soft pretzels, I’ve been looking for a good excuse to make them. Then football season rolled around. 
 
So when Emily and Erik came over to watch a playoff game a few weeks back, I was on it. Besides the usual suspects -- crackers and cheese, roasted peanuts in their shells, chips and salsa -- I wanted to offer a big tray of salty, hot pretzels ready to be doused in mustard. 
 
The dough was easy enough, and the rolling out and making of proper knots took only a few tries to master. But I did learn a thing or two. First of all, even if you use parchment paper, oil it. Those suckers stick to it like nobody’s business, and having to forcefully pull them off deforms their delicate little shapes. Secondly, kosher salt isn’t coarse enough. I thought it would hold up but it immediately dissolved into the egg wash. If you, like most people, don’t have authentic pretzel salt lying around, a large, coarse sea salt will do nicely.

Since there were only 4 of us, I decided to freeze half the dough (portioned out but not rolled or formed). So when we were invited to a friend’s house to watch the Super Bowl a week or so later, my contribution was quick and easy. The dough defrosted in the refrigerator in a matter of hours and behaved exactly as if it were fresh. Next time I'd like to fashion it into little buns for pretzel dot sandwiches like the ones I had at Licorous last year (prosciutto, Gruyere, sauerkraut and a grainy mustard sauce). 
 
These are a bit laborious but the results, paired with a frosty beer, are well worth it.

Gnocchi with Sausage, Cream and Roasted Butternut Squash

Back in October I won a $50 gift certificate to La Spiga, an Italian restaurant in Capitol Hill featuring food from the Romagna region. Life became increasingly hectic –- the big move, travel, holidays –- so we didn’t find the time to take advantage until last Saturday. 

We arrived a few minutes early and had time to sip a glass of chilled white while taking in the surroundings. The space was lovely with lots of dark wood, glass and romantic lighting. After being lead to the upstairs loft, we ordered a few plates to share: ricotta gnocchi, fresh pappardelle with duck ragout, pork tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto and, for dessert, an assortment of cheeses. We enjoyed every last bite. (I did, however, have one small bone to pick: they served plain, chalky pita bread before and during the meal. Someone should tell them that crusty bread with olive oil and balsamic wins every time).

Back to that gnocchi. These were made with ricotta cheese instead of potato, which I find impossible to resist, and were paired with a simple sauce of sausage and cream. So light, so fluffy, I was instantly obsessed. Two days later I found myself at Madison Market buying local chicken sausage, organic cream and a package of freshly made potato gnocchi (Monday evenings warrant shortcuts). I intended to recreate the meal with my own winter twist: roasted butternut squash.

When I got home I quickly peeled, de-seeded and diced the squash into uniform little squares. After a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and 40 minutes in the oven, they were caramelized and crispy.

The rest of this dish was a snap to assemble, taking only 15 minutes or so. Sausage, white wine, cream, garlic, nutmeg and Parmesan were simmered down into a creamy, velvety sauce, requiring only a quick toss with the hot gnocchi, squash and fresh herbs to call it dinner. Definitely doable on a busy night.

La Spiga’s version was absolutely delicious... but this! This was dynamite.

Gnocchi with Roasted Butternut Squash, Sausage and Cream 
This dish would do well with a few handfuls of baby spinach tossed in at the last minute. To make it vegetarian, replace the chicken sausage with sliced porcini mushrooms.

1 small butternut squash, peeled, de-seeded and diced
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 Italian chicken sausages
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 glass dry white wine
3/4 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground nutmeg
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish
1 package ready-to-cook gnocchi or 1 batch of homemade, ricotta or potato style
A good handful of chopped fresh parsley 

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place diced squash on a parchment-lined baking sheet; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to coat and transfer to the oven. Bake, stirring once or twice, until tender and caramelized, 30-45 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside.
 
Fill a large pot with salted water and bring to a boil.
 
In the meantime, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Squeeze the chicken sausages out of their casings and place in the skillet (you can add a drop of oil at this point if necessary). Cook, breaking the meat up into bite-sized pieces, until sausage is no longer pink, about 6 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for another minute. Pour in a hefty glass of white wine and bring to a boil, reducing it down to about a third of its volume. Add the cream, a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg and 1/3 cup Parmesan. Lower heat to a simmer and let it cook down a bit until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
 
When the pot of salted water reaches a boil, add the gnocchi and cook according to package/recipe instructions (mine only took about 3 minutes). Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the skillet. Add a handful of freshly chopped parsley and toss to coat. If the sauce seems too thick, add a spoonful of the pasta water. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper if necessary. Serve hot garnished with freshly grated Parmesan.

Cevapci

As most of you know, I hit the dusty trail last summer. My first destination was New York to see family and friends, bookended by Switzerland for the same reason. But the middle was reserved for a region of the world perpetually on the receiving end of my intrigue and fascination: the Balkans.

I grew up in an immigrant church with a fair amount of Yugoslavians, so the people and culture were quite familiar. I can’t tell you how many jokes we had about moussaka and the colon, or how many times I was dared to yell the Serbian word for diarrhea. But it wasn’t until I moved to Europe that I grasped just how alluring the Adriatic coast was. The civil unrest had ended and the former Yugoslavia was in repair. I knew that I wanted to experience it before a) it got too expensive and b) the rest of the world discovered this slice of paradise, again. 

Although it happened much later than planned, my big chance finally came last summer. We spent weeks traveling from Slovenia all the way down the coast of Croatia and eventually into Bosnia-Herzegovina. The panorama was breathtaking, especially the carved stone beaches jutting into the Adriatic Sea and the ancient cities surrounded by walls. But, and I say this with much disappointment, the food was quite forgettable.

It wasn’t until a few weeks ago that an article in the Times -- “The Balkan Burger Unites All Factions” -- jogged my memory.

We were on the island of Korcula, a luxurious little paradise known for being Marco Polo’s birthplace, and couldn't imagine sitting down to one more plate of mediocre pasta or pizza. So we went to Kristina, our sobe owner’s daughter, for some dinner advice. She explained that the restaurants are left for tourists since most natives grow/make just about everything they eat (bread, wine, vegetables, etc.). But if there’s one thing that gets them out, it’s Cevapcici.  

So we immediately found a stand offering these beloved ground meat sandwiches for about 4 bucks, the same price as the average espresso. We watched the woman behind the counter hand-form over a dozen finger-shaped sausages and put them on a large grill to sizzle. When she asked about condiments, we requested everything, plus an extra slathering of Ajvar, a mouthwatering spread made from red peppers, eggplant and chili. Along with plenty of salad fixings and a large, flat bun, this Balkan burger turned out to be our tastiest meal by far.

I’m so glad that Julia Moskin divulged where to get a cevapi-fix this side of the Atlantic. I know exactly what I'll be doing on my next trip to New York.

  

 

African Peanut Soup with Chicken

I can’t precisely remember what led me to make this peanut soup. I think I was cruising through food blog space and saw Gluten-Free Girl’s post on Marcus Samuelsson’s new book, The Soul of a New Cuisine, and that mouth-watering photo of those squash and apple fritters. Ever since I’ve had African-inspired food on the brain.

I don’t know about you but I always think peanut stews when I think African cuisine. Mark Bittman contributed one such recipe in his Minimalist column last June in the New York Times so I thought that would be a good place to start. After reading through a handful of other recipes, I came up with the following version – a smoother textured soup with a spicier kick.  

This is delicious hot off the stove but even better reheated the next day.   

African Peanut Soup with Chicken
More of a stew, this thick, flavorful soup goes well with a scoop of brown rice. 

3 tablespoons peanut oil, divided
1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs, cut into chunks
Salt and pepper
½ tablespoon curry powder
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeño, diced
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 cups chicken stock
28 oz can whole plum tomatoes
1 pound yams (1 large or 2 small), peeled and diced
1/3 cup crushed, roasted peanuts
1/3 cup natural peanut butter
1 bunch kale, washed, stems removed and cut into ribbons 

In a large pot over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoon peanut oil until hot. Add chicken pieces and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until no longer pink and just beginning to color, 6-8 minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside.
 
In the same pot over medium heat, add remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add curry powder and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add onions and cook for 4 minutes more. Add the garlic, ginger, jalapeño and cayenne and continue cooking for 2 more minutes. Add the stock, entire can of tomatoes and the diced yam. Bring to a boil then reduce heat, cover and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes.
 
Working in batches, transfer the soup to a food processor or blender and pulse, leaving it with a bit of texture. Return soup to pot and add chicken pieces along with any juices collected on the plate plus 1/3 cup crushed peanuts. Cover and simmer over low for 10 minutes. 
 
Swirl in 1/3 cup peanut butter until dissolved. Stir in kale, cover and let simmer on low for 10 minutes or until kale is tender.
 
Season to taste. Serve hot garnished with crushed peanuts and freshly chopped cilantro or green scallions.

Warm Roasted Pepper Salad

We don’t have cable, but if we did we’d be in trouble. Tristan for his sports addiction and me for being a cooking show junkie. We actually get by quite nicely with Netflix. But can I say thank god for PBS? Not only do they air old black and white Julia Child episodes, they have Ming Tsai, Lidia Bastianich and America’s Test Kitchen in their line-up. And in my opinion, these shows are far superior to anything you’ll find on the Food Network.

That said, I was half awake one night on the sofa watching Lidia’s Italy. I really should’ve retired to bed but she was about to make a roasted pepper salad that sounded incredible. I watched, salivated and hoped I’d remember it the next day.

Good thing I did because this salad blew our socks off. The oven-roasted peppers were sweet and juicy while the capers, anchovies and olives contributed earthiness, saltiness and brine. I served it with pan fried white fish for dinner and then alongside scrambled eggs the next day for breakfast. The muffled “mmmm’s” and “ahhh’s” between forkfuls proved its worthiness.

Roasted Red Pepper Salad with Capers, Anchovies and Olives

Don’t even consider using jarred roasted peppers – the slightly warm, just roasted flavor is what knocks this out of the park. Adapted from Lidia’s Italy.

6 bell peppers, preferably 2 red, 2 yellow and 2 orange 

Olive oil

Salt

6 anchovy fillets, minced

1 heaping tablespoon capers

Rounded 1/3 cup oil-cured black olives

3 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Wash and dry bell peppers and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush outsides with olive oil and sprinkle with kosher salt. Bake until charred and very soft (they’ll start collapsing), about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.

When cool enough to handle, peel skin away from peppers. Pull out stems, cut each pepper open and scrape out seeds. Using your fingers, tear peppers into 1-inch wide strips and place in a bowl. Add anchovies, capers, olives and parsley and mix well. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Shepherd's Pie with Lamb Mince

Tristan was horribly sick last week and had to fend for himself for two days straight. After one too many bowls of instant ramen and salt & vinegar potato chips, all he wanted was some home-cooked comfort food. “Something plain with meat,” he said.  “What’s more comforting than Shepherd’s Pie,” I thought?

Last spring I bought 2 packages of Olsen Farm’s freshly ground lamb (they claim to butcher the youngest, freshest lambs resulting in succulent meat with virtually no gamey taste) from the U-District farmers’ market with hopes of turning it into lamb ragout over homemade pappardelle. That never happened. So they’ve been sitting in my freezer all this time awaiting their big reveal. There hardly seemed a better way to showcase them than in an 18th century English peasant dish.

I read through at least a dozen Shepherd’s Pie recipes before feeling grounded enough to just wing it. For Tristan’s sake, I wanted something straightforwardly delicious and not too fancy. The following recipe delivered just that. It was so tasty that we ate it for both breakfast and a midnight snack the following day.

Shepherd’s Pie with Lamb Mince
The lamb in this recipe can easily be replaced with ground beef, but then be sure to call it Cottage Pie.

Serves 4

1 ½ pounds waxy potatoes
1 pound ground lamb
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups beef or chicken broth
1 – 1 ½ cups frozen mixed vegetables (peas, corn & carrots)
2-3 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
Milk
3 tablespoons chopped, fresh parsley


Preheat oven to 400°F.

Peel and quarter potatoes. Place in a medium saucepan, cover with salted water and boil until tender, 15-20 minutes.
 
Meanwhile, cook ground lamb in a large skillet over medium heat until no longer pink (feel free to add a drizzle of oil if the pan needs it). Drain on paper towels and wipe out skillet.
 
In same skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Add diced onions and sauté until tender and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add minced garlic and cook a minute or two longer. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the raw, tinny taste cooks out, about 2 minutes. Add broth, Worcestershire sauce and frozen vegetables. Cook, uncovered, over low heat until thickened, about 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste (and more Worcestershire sauce if necessary).
 
When potatoes are tender, drain and return to saucepan over low heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and enough milk to mash until smooth and creamy. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle in parsley and mix well.

Pour the lamb/vegetable mixture into an appropriate size baking dish. Spread mashed potatoes evenly over the top, then use a fork to create little peaks that will brown when baked. Transfer to oven and bake, uncovered, until brown and bubbly, 20-30 minutes. If desired, place under the broiler for the last few minutes to ensure browning and crisping on top.

Nude Food's Got a New Kitchen

Wow, it’s been a long time. Not only was I a.w.o.l. during the holiday season (overseas again), but I was incommunicado for a length of time beforehand. This I blame on moving. Yep, we finally said adios to the University District and heeell-o to Capitol Hill. Not only do we finally have some peace and quiet (not many drunk 19 year olds partying at 4am on a Tuesday in this neck of the woods), but NudeFood scored a new kitchen!

And I’m in love.

It’s super spacious with a gas stove-containing island that was made for entertaining. It has built-in spice racks, a marble-topped work surface, track lighting and lots of windows. And did I mention a gas range?! Agghhhhh!

There is, however, one point of contention. The oven is the old-school sort with a teeny, tiny little broiler drawer in the bottom. As the New York Times so aptly pointed out, the broiler is under appreciated by most people, an unsung hero of sorts. For years it was my preferred method for making toast, steaks, baked eggs (that one's gonna hurt) and fish. Well, they say change is good so I’ll embrace this as a chance to perfect the pan-sear-then-finish-off-in-the-oven-steak and, well, probably buy a toaster. It’s all good.

Needless to say, I’m thrilled to be back. All boxes have been unpacked, all items have found a home, and all suitcases have been tucked away in the basement. So be on the lookout for lots of (non-broiler) recipes coming out of NudeFood’s new cucina in 2010. I think it will be a splendid year.