Celery Apple Salad with Toasted Walnuts

As 2014 comes to a close, I'd like to finish the year by talking salad. If you're like most people, this conjures up images of lettuce leaves, perhaps with tomato wedges and cucumber slices, coated in dressing. While I adore green salads (from fresh heads of lettuce and scratch dressing), I'd like to inspire you to think beyond the leaf. 

If I had it my way, I'd have some type of salad (celery root, carrot, raw beet, apple and herb, etc.) at every meal. This probably stems from the years I spent in Switzerland, where a day didn't go by without some type of salad gracing the table. We always ate it after the main course, which may sound strange to you pre-dinner salad eaters, but no matter how full you were, a salad would settle the stomach and aid in digestion. It worked like a charm.

While I avoid the pre-washed, bagged salad mixes (you shouldn't if that works for you), I don't always have the time or desire to wash and spin a head of grimy lettuce. This celery apple salad is for nights like that.

I always have celery in the crisper and apples in the fruit bowl, both of which keep pretty well. So even when groceries are running low, this is a cinch to throw together on a busy night. There's really no reason you can't have your salad and eat it, too.

Celery and Apple Salad with Toasted Walnuts
The variations here are endless. Use any green herb (I'm partial to parsley or chives), nuts (pecans, almonds, hazelnuts or pistachios), or fruit (grapes or pears work equally well in place of the apples). For a more substantial salad, add some soft, crumbled cheese (think feta, chèvre, gorgonzola, etc.)  

1/2 cup raw walnut halves
5 large celery ribs
1 crisp apple, cored and cut into thin slices
1/3 cup fresh, chopped parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 - 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spread walnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake for 8-10 minutes, checking frequently, until they begin to brown and give off a nutty, toasted aroma. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Slice each celery rib on a bias to produce long, thin, diagonal slices. Add the celery and apple to a large salad bowl. Roughly chop the walnuts and add them, along with the parsley, to the celery and apples. Sprinkle with olive oil, fresh lemon juice (start with 1 tablespoon) and salt and pepper to taste. Toss well. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice (I always add more), if needed. Serve with - or if you're at my house, after - your meal.

Caraway Cabbage with Pasta

If you’re looking for a quick and delicious meal that also happens to be pretty darn healthy, have I got something for you.

This is an Eastern European-style dish that my mom made pretty frequently when we were growing up. I used to love standing at the stove taking in the smell of onions sautéing in butter. And then, along with the shredded cabbage, she’d add the secret ingredient: caraway seeds. Don't even think about making this dish without them. It would be like rye bread without its signature flavor - preposterous! Besides, if my mom found a way to get kids to happily devour cabbage, I wouldn’t mess with a good thing.

From start to finish this only takes about 15 minutes. I’m not normally a pusher of 20 minute meals – that niche has been filled to capacity – but it’s nice to have a few quick dishes in your arsenal for busy nights.

I like to eat my Caraway Cabbage with Pasta on its own but it also tastes fabulous topped with Parmesan cheese or a dollop of sour cream. And, if you need meat or are serving this as a main course, a little crispy pancetta or bacon would push this into the ridiculous category (just cook 4 ounces of diced bacon/pancetta in a skillet over medium heat until crisp; remove, continue with the recipe as written and then add it back in at the end along with the pasta).

I can’t believe it took me this long to make such a beloved childhood dish. Glad it’s back. 

Caraway Cabbage with Pasta
A simple and very satisfying peasant dish. It easily stands on its own but would accompany a braised brisket or pan seared pork chop beautifully. Leftovers taste great with a fried egg on top.

Serves 4 as a side dish, 2-3 as a main course

3 tablespoons butter
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 small head green cabbage, thinly shredded (5-6 cups total)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
8 ounces dry pasta (my mom always used bowtie but any shape will do)

Set a large pot of salted water on to boil.

In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the shredded cabbage, a few good pinches of salt, freshly ground black pepper and the caraway seeds. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, 8-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the salted water until al dente; drain. When the cabbage is tender, add the cooked pasta and toss well. Taste for salt and adjust seasonings if necessary. Serve and watch it disappear.

Classic French Baguette Épi

Thanksgiving 2010 was a success, particularly if measured in terms of overeating and unbuttoned pants. As you know, my contribution this year was a fancy artisan épi (a baguette formed to resemble a stalk of wheat), thanks to Peter Reinhart's newest cookbook Artisan Breads Every Day. So much energy is put into the turkey, stuffing and pies that the simplest form of comfort food, good bread and butter, often gets overlooked. Talley changed everything a couple of years ago by making Jim Lahey's celebrated No-Knead Bread so I took it upon myself to continue the baking tradition.

If you're already thinking that a baguette seems too complicated, let me assure you that there are no fancy gadgets or special equipment involved. If you have a mixing bowl, two hands and a regular old baking sheet, you're set.

The dough itself is very straightforward: flour, salt, yeast and water. But the trick is to begin at least one day in advance so that the flavors can develop during a slow overnight fermentation in the refrigerator.

While I was incredibly pleased with the results, I did learn a couple of things the hard way.

1. When creating the necessary oven steam, do not pour cold water into a searing hot Pyrex dish. It will explode.
 
2. To cut the épi shape, make each cut in the same fashion down the length of the loaf. The only thing that changes are the alternating directions of the "rolls" (the aesthetics of one of my loaves was sacrificed in order to learn this lesson - but it was still delicious).

This classic recipe (which starts on page 49) produces one of the finest baguettes available, and with minimal effort, which means that you don't need the excuse of a holiday to enjoy it.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Citrus Compound Butter and Rosemary-Scented Sugared Pecans

 

A friend recently asked if I had any special Thanksgiving recipes to share but to be honest, I’ve never had to host the big dinner at my house. Most years my contribution involves appetizers, homemade bread or pies. And then the other day one of my coworkers shared her very popular, very simple annual dish. It involves roasting butternut squash, drizzling it with melted lemon butter and sprinkling it with chopped rosemary and walnuts. I decided, two days before take-off, to give it a go.

There are many possible variations to this recipe. Since we’re in the midst of the holiday season I thought an herbed citrus compound butter would be beautiful. And while walnuts are lovely, why not add a bit of sweetness with rosemary-scented sugared pecans? The results were dazzling.

 

There’s no need to be intimidated by the term compound butter; it’s just a fancy way of referring to butter that’s been flavored. If you don’t want to bother, simply melt the butter, mix in the zests, rosemary and salt, and drizzle it over the roasted squash. And if you'd rather skip the rosemary sugared pecans, plain roasted pecans chopped with a bit of fresh rosemary will also make a nice topping (you may want to sprinkle a bit of brown sugar over the squash wedges to give them that sweet-savory component). 

This Thanksgiving we’re heading to Tristan’s aunt and uncle’s house and I’m responsible for the bread (I’m thinking a wheat-sheaf Pain de Champagne) so stay tuned!

Rosemary Sugared Pecans 

1 cup pecans

2 tablespoons butter

2 slightly rounded tablespoons packed light brown sugar

Pinch of cayenne

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

Coarse salt  

Roasted Butternut Squash 

1 medium butternut squash (or squash of choice, delicata is shown here)

Olive oil

Kosher salt 

Rosemary Citrus Compound Butter

The below amounts make more than you'll need for 1 roasted butternut squash.

 

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons lemon zest

1 teaspoon orange zest

Pinch of salt

For the pecans: preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spread pecan halves in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Transfer to the oven and roast for 8-10 minutes or until they are golden and fragrant. Remove and set aside.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper (or if you don’t have any parchment, a lightly buttered sheet will do). Set aside.

In a large skillet heat the butter, sugar, cayenne and rosemary over medium-high. Once the butter has melted, add the nuts and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Transfer the nuts to the prepared baking sheet and sprinkle with a good pinch of coarse salt. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.

For the squash: preheat oven to 400˚F.

If you’d like to serve the squash skinless, use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin. Carefully cut the squash lengthwise in half; scoop out the seeds and fibers with a spoon. Cut each half in half again and rub the cut side of each quarter lightly with olive oil. Place wedges cut side up in a baking dish and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Transfer to the oven and roast until the edges have browned and the flesh is tender, 40-60 minutes.

For the compound butter: mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl. The butter can be used immediately or rolled on parchment paper into a log shape, wrapped in plastic and frozen.

To assemble: Place squash wedges on a serving platter lined with rosemary sprigs. Top each with a dollop of compound butter and a sprinkling of crunchy pecans. Garnish with a bit of orange zest, if desired.

Green Herb Garlic Bread

It may be the American way but I always felt that serving plain old bread alongside spaghetti was redundant. Don’t get me wrong, if it’s there I’ll eat it but does a boiled heap of white flour really need slices of baked white flour to wash it down? In the case of garlic bread, absolutely.

There’s something about a toasty loaf slathered with melted butter and chunks of real garlic that make it a different animal altogether. And when you add freshly chopped green herbs, it’s anything but redundant.

I served it with the Italian Wedding Soup I wrote about last week and couldn’t help but notice that Tristan polished off three quarters of the loaf. I’d say it was a hit.

Green Herb Garlic Bread 
Feel free to use parsley alone or any combination of fresh herbs that you have on hand. It's the perfect accompaniment to soups, stews, salads and yes, spaghetti.
 
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped basil leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 loaf crusty ciabatta bread or a large baguette
 
Preheat oven to 350˚F.
 
In a small mixing bowl, stir together the butter, garlic, herbs and salt.
 
Slice the ciabatta in half lengthwise and spread each half evenly with the herbed butter. Place cut side up on a sheet pan and bake for 15 minutes.
 
Sandwich bread back together and cut into slices.

Crispy Zucchini Pancakes

I’d been meaning to make these for the longest time. The reviews of Barefoot Contessa’s recipe were highly favorable, plus I love anything fried and crispy. And besides, who couldn’t use a new way to prepare the ubiquitous zucchini?

I’m delighted to say that the hoopla was well-deserved. These. Are. Phenomenal.

But there’s no need to take my word for it. I put them to the test and made a double batch for a fruit and vegetable-themed cooking class that I did for clients last month. Not only were they a hit, even the pickiest eaters came back for 2nds and 3rds. I could barely keep up production!

Then a couple weeks ago, I was asked to teach a one-hour cooking class for a kids’ summer camp. In addition to homemade hummus and raspberry fruit dip, I thought little silver dollar sized green pancakes would be fun. While they sizzled on the griddle, the teacher read Pancakes, Pancakes! By Eric Carle, which talks about the lengths a little boy has to go to have pancakes for breakfast (milling the wheat, gathering eggs, milking the cow and boiling down maple sap). By the time the story was done, so were our little pancakes. The kids eagerly gobbled them up with comments like, “15 stars!” and, “These would be GREAT for St. Patrick’s Day!”

You really have no excuse for not eating your veggies.

 
Zucchini Pancakes
If you think zucchini is boring, try this recipe. It can be served hot and crispy with sour cream and salmon or as a simple side dish to your entrée. You could even fold a little cheese into the batter. Adapted from a Barefoot Contessa at Home recipe.
 
2 medium zucchini (about 3/4 pound)
1/4 cup grated onion
2 eggs, lightly beaten
6 to 8 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
A few grinds of freshly ground black pepper
Butter and vegetable oil

Preheat the oven to 300°F. 
 
Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the zucchini into a bowl. Add the grated onion and eggs; stir well. Stir in 6 tablespoons of the flour, the baking powder, salt and pepper. If your zucchini are on the watery side, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour. 
 
Heat a large skillet (I like using cast iron) over medium heat and add a ½ tablespoon each of butter and oil (or you can use all oil). When the butter is hot but not smoking, lower the heat to medium-low and drop heaping spoons of batter into the pan. Cook the pancakes about 2 minutes on each side or until browned. Place the pancakes on a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you continue frying the rest, wiping out the pan with a dry paper towel and adding more butter and oil in between batches. The pancakes can stay warm for up to 30 minutes in the oven. Serve hot.

Warm Roasted Pepper Salad

We don’t have cable, but if we did we’d be in trouble. Tristan for his sports addiction and me for being a cooking show junkie. We actually get by quite nicely with Netflix. But can I say thank god for PBS? Not only do they air old black and white Julia Child episodes, they have Ming Tsai, Lidia Bastianich and America’s Test Kitchen in their line-up. And in my opinion, these shows are far superior to anything you’ll find on the Food Network.

That said, I was half awake one night on the sofa watching Lidia’s Italy. I really should’ve retired to bed but she was about to make a roasted pepper salad that sounded incredible. I watched, salivated and hoped I’d remember it the next day.

Good thing I did because this salad blew our socks off. The oven-roasted peppers were sweet and juicy while the capers, anchovies and olives contributed earthiness, saltiness and brine. I served it with pan fried white fish for dinner and then alongside scrambled eggs the next day for breakfast. The muffled “mmmm’s” and “ahhh’s” between forkfuls proved its worthiness.

Roasted Red Pepper Salad with Capers, Anchovies and Olives

Don’t even consider using jarred roasted peppers – the slightly warm, just roasted flavor is what knocks this out of the park. Adapted from Lidia’s Italy.

6 bell peppers, preferably 2 red, 2 yellow and 2 orange 

Olive oil

Salt

6 anchovy fillets, minced

1 heaping tablespoon capers

Rounded 1/3 cup oil-cured black olives

3 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Wash and dry bell peppers and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush outsides with olive oil and sprinkle with kosher salt. Bake until charred and very soft (they’ll start collapsing), about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.

When cool enough to handle, peel skin away from peppers. Pull out stems, cut each pepper open and scrape out seeds. Using your fingers, tear peppers into 1-inch wide strips and place in a bowl. Add anchovies, capers, olives and parsley and mix well. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Manna from Heaven

Certain things come to mind when I picture a Thanksgiving spread, the most obvious being the bird, stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. I look forward to eating each and every one of those traditional dishes with absolute fervor but I kid you not, the unexpected star of last Thanksgiving dinner was a loaf of bread.

Our friend Talley made Jim Lahey's celebrated No-Knead Bread that was published in the New York Times a few years back. The one that requires a quick mix of flour, water and yeast followed by a long, uninterrupted rest of about 18 hours. I was intrigued when he explained the process (this is the same guy who cures his own bacon and steeps homemade limoncello for 90 days). And the taste! It had a perfectly chewy, crispy crust surrounding an airy, delicate middle. My beautiful plate of turkey, squash and dressing took a back seat while I buttered and ate one, two, three, oh god knows how many slices of bread. It was that good.

Needless to say, we've been making it ever since. The classic version with a cornmeal crust is a trusted standby but I've been experimenting (I've got a loaf coated with sesame salt in the oven this very moment). I'm not exactly an accomplished baker but this no-fuss recipe turns out glorious, miraculous bread every single time.

Roasted Roots

It's April in Seattle. This means a few tantalizing, sunny days sandwiched between 25 days of umbrellas and rain boots. This year, just for kicks, Mother Nature decided to play a cruel joke on us sun-starved Seattleites: she let it snow on April 1st. Ha ha, good one. Now I get April Fool's.

As long as this chilly, damp weather remains, I'll continue craving me some stick-to-your-ribs comfort food. Luckily yesterday, I had a beautiful assortment of farmers market root vegetables to play with: tiny potatoes, yellow baby carrots, celery root, turnips and garlic. A few minutes of peeling and chopping, a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of salt and pepper and a nice roast in the hot oven is all it took to turn that crunchy produce into sweet, caramelized heaven.

Simple dishes like this warm my soul and make me hopeful of what's to come.

Go ahead Mother Nature, bring it.

Roasted Roots
Simple oven roasting imparts an intensified, concentrated sweetness to root vegetables. Roast with a few sprigs of sturdy herbs (like rosemary) or toss with soft, leafy herbs (like parsley) after vegetables are cooked.

2 lbs root vegetables of choice, washed, peeled (if desired) and chopped
Whole garlic cloves, skin on
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a shallow, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place vegetables on baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with coarse salt and pepper and toss to coat evenly. Spread to a single layer and roast in oven 40-50 minutes or until vegetables are tender, golden brown and beginning to caramelize. Be sure to stir once or twice during roasting.

*Serving ideas: roasted roots taste scrumptious alone, on pizza, in soups, as a sandwich filling with goat cheese or tossed with pasta.