Italian Salsa Verde

I buy a bunch of fresh parsley and cilantro on almost every shopping trip. The parsley goes into carrot salads, meatballs and on top of pretty much anything coming off the stove. And since we gravitate toward Asian flavors, cilantro has become an indispensable staple. But despite my best efforts, I inevitably end up composting the last bits of wilted herbs that didn't quite make it to the dinner table.

I've always enjoyed a good salsa verde or chimichurri, and theoretically knew that these leftover herbs could be repurposed into something delicious. But I guess it just felt… fussy. Then last month, as winter approached, I deeply craved something herbaceous and bright. In a moment of inspiration, I pulled out my mini food processor and whipped up a simple green sauce in a matter of minutes (the opposite of fussy). I served it alongside crispy oven-roasted potatoes and was astounded at how it made that simple dish come alive. Fresh, bright, green things do that. The kids devoured it, even after the potatoes were long gone. 

If you need a little culinary pick-me-up this winter but don't usually buy fresh parsley, add it to your shopping list with the explicit purpose of making this sauce.

Italian Salsa Verde

This is more of a “no recipe” recipe. Use what you have on hand - all parsley or a mix of fresh herbs (parsley and cilantro is my favorite combo, but basil or a bit of tarragon would be delicious additions). No lemon juice? Add a small splash of red wine vinegar. For a bit of brine or umami, throw in a tablespoon of drained capers or a few anchovy filets, respectively. The sauce tastes spectacular with roasted potatoes, poultry, fish or meat, but also brightens eggs, grilled vegetables and fresh cheeses. I wouldn’t think twice about adding a spoonful to a bowl of vegetable soup either. 

 

1 small garlic clove

1 bunch parsley, or a mix of fresh herbs (see note above) - keep the stems, they have flavor! Just trim off the lowest portion.

¾ cup olive oil, or more as needed

Lemon juice to taste 

Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

Sea salt and pepper to taste

Smash the garlic clove and place it in a food processor along with the parsley, ½ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and red pepper flakes, if using. Process until a finely minced sauce forms. Depending on the amount of herbs used, you may need to add another ¼ cup or more of olive oil (I regularly need at least ¾ cup per regular bunch of parsley). The sauce should be slick and pourable. Add salt and pepper, taste, and adjust all seasonings as needed.

If you don’t have a food processor, finely chop the parsley and mince the garlic. Transfer to a bowl and mix with remaining ingredients. 

Can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for up to 5 days.

An Ode to Sorrel

Have you ever tasted something for the first time and thought, “Where have you been all my life!?” That was me with sorrel.

I wasn’t even familiar with this leafy green until last year when Beryl suggested we plant some in our garden. It tasted so bright and lemony, and I dreamt about turning it into creamy sorrel soup once harvest time rolled around. Well, that time came and went while we were on vacation and the plant bolted. So much for soup.

This year I was determined not to repeat history. I did my research and found that sorrel, which is hugely popular in French cuisine, is often served as a sauce for fish. So I picked our plant clean and melted a heaping bowl of leaves into a just-creamy-enough white wine shallot sauce. Paired with pan fried cod, this immediately shot to the top of the best-dishes-I’ve-ever-eaten list. 

  
While there is some difference of opinion regarding the origins of the word “sorrel” --some say it comes from a French word, others claim Germanic roots -- both origins mean “sour.” The plant contains oxalic acid (also found in rhubarb), which gives it that characteristic lemony, tart flavor. It can be served raw in salads or sandwiches, pureed into soups or pesto, or, in this case, made into a lovely sauce for fish.

My first experience with sorrel was nothing short of a revelation, and in an attempt to make up for lost time (and eat as much of it as possible this summer), I immediately ran out and bought more starts for the garden. Perhaps next year I'll plant an entire patch...

This could get out of hand. 

Fish with Sorrel Sauce 
I used cod but have heard that this sauce tastes magnificent with salmon. Adapted from The New York Times.

Serves 2

2-3 shallots, diced finely
1 tablespoon butter
Glass of dry white wine
1 - 1 1/2 cups vegetable or fish stock
1/2 cup cream
1 bunch sorrel

2 tablespoons high heat oil 
1 pound cod fillets (sole, perch, haddock or trout would also work)
Salt and pepper

In a large skillet over medium-low heat, sweat the shallots in butter until soft and translucent. Add a glass of white wine, increase the heat to high and reduce completely. Add the vegetable stock (if it's a subtle stock, use 1 1/2 cups; if it's strong, start with 1 cup) and reduce over high heat until 1/4 cup of liquid remains, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, strip the sorrel leaves from their stems. If the leaves are big, rip them into large pieces (there is no need for tiny pieces since the sorrel will wilt down tremendously). Wash and spin dry.

After the broth mixture has reduced, lower heat to low and stir in the cream. Add the sorrel and wilt down completely (it will look like a lot at first but won't take long to melt like spinach). Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

In the meantime, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Lightly season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper and place in the skillet. Cook until fish flakes easily, about 3 minutes per side.

Divide the sorrel sauce between two plates and top each with a fillet of pan fried fish. Roasted or steamed parsley potatoes make a nice accompaniment.

Mango Salsa

I can’t let summer pass us by without mentioning one of my go-to hot weather dishes, mango salsa. Not only does it take minutes to assemble, it doesn’t require any heat (other than the Jalapeño sort). The sweet-hot combination pairs beautifully with everyday proteins by adding freshness and vibrancy. Try it with grilled salmon, pan-seared cod, chicken or my personal favorite, red curry shrimp.

Mango Salsa Recipe
This recipe could also be made with fresh peaches or nectarines. To dice a mango, cut it in half lengthwise following the pit as closely as possible. Score the flesh of each half in a criss-cross fashion all the way to the skin (but don’t cut through the skin). Invert each half (it will look like a porcupine) and slice off the chunks. Adapted from Simply Recipes.

1 ripe mango, diced 
1/4 large red onion, finely diced
1 Jalapeño, minced (leave out the seeds and ribs if you don’t like hotness) 
1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced, optional
Juice from one large juicy lime 
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped (fresh mint also works well)
Pinch of salt 
Other additions: avocado chunks, halved cherry tomatoes, diced red bell pepper or jicama

In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and taste for seasoning.